If you find the idea of eating insects horrifying, you might be surprised to learn you’ve likely consumed them many times. One of the most common red food colorings, carmine, is derived from crushed cochineal bugs. These insects, native to Latin America, primarily live on cacti and are now mostly farmed in Peru.
Carmine is a staple in the global food industry, found in products like yogurts, ice creams, fruit pies, soft drinks, and many baked goods. It’s also widely used in cosmetics, particularly lipsticks. The popularity of carmine stems from its stability, safety, and longevity, as its color remains unaffected by heat or light.
Advocates of carmine highlight its natural origins, tracing back to the Maya and Aztecs over five centuries ago. They argue it is healthier than synthetic colorings derived from coal or petroleum. However, even supporters believe it should be more clearly labeled. Many products might list it under names like “natural red four,” “crimson lake,” or its EU additive number, E120.
Amy Butler Greenfield, author of A Perfect Red, emphasizes that carmine has a long safety record, though a few people may have allergic reactions. Peru currently dominates carmine production, holding a 95% share of the global market, providing jobs for over 32,600 farmers.
Cochineal bugs, about 5mm long, are harvested from prickly pear cacti. Only the wingless females are collected, as they contain carminic acid, which gives carmine its red hue and deters predators. The bugs are typically dried and processed to remove any remaining insect parts.
In 2023, Peru exported 647 tonnes of carmine worth $46.4 million, showing a rising demand and increasing prices. For instance, the price per tonne rose by 73% from 2013 to 2017.
Companies like Premier Foods still use carmine for its stability and vibrant color but are exploring vegetarian alternatives. Animal rights group Peta urges a complete phase-out of carmine, noting it takes around 70,000 insects to produce just 500g of dye. The growing vegan movement is encouraging companies to create more animal-friendly options.
Starbucks, for instance, switched from carmine to lycopene, a tomato-based dye, after customer complaints in 2012. While there are natural alternatives, such as berry and beetroot extracts, they often lack the longevity of carmine.
Ultimately, while some seek to replace carmine, it remains a crucial income source for many farmers in Peru.
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